-Installation


Bring: hardhat, safety glasses, dust mask, tape measurer, pencil, gloves, knippers, scraper, ID badge, safety book, DPA.

 

Instructions for all cabinets onsite:

1.  Bathroom Vanities (same for men’s and women’s):

In each bathroom, cut away sheetrock from the floor where the vanity will go. Cut sheetrock along taped lines, remove without scratching walls or making a lot of dust (paint may be wet).

Bring in cabinet and level cabinet:  In left, right, and middle, measure up from floor.  Subtract actual height to line from height of cabinet. Make 3 shims (cut flat end piece of scrap 2″ x 4″) to the correct height for left, right, and middle.  Place shims against wall.  Set cabinet carefully back against wall.  Check level.  Place wedges (triangular shaped pieces of scrap) in front of cabinet if needed to level.  Also check level front to back.

Find any stud (studs are 1 1/2″ wide and every 16″ for most jobs).  Screw cabinet in with 2 1/2″ #2 screws on every stud.

Line up doors and install scribe molding against the walls if needed.

 

2. Library Base Cabinets

Take doors off, bring base cabinets into library.  Find out distance of cabinet from glass front wall (16″?) Place cabinet against wall at the correct distance.

Mark (small vertical marks) the wall at top of cabinet: left side, right side, and 2 joints where internal cabinet sides are.

Measure cabinet height. With long level, drawer a line across wall (only where it will be covered by cabinet) at that height. Remove cabinet.

Level cabinet:  In left, right, and middle, measure up from floor.  Subtract actual height to line from height of cabinet. Make 3 shims (cut flat end piece of scrap 2″ x 4″) to the correct height for left, right, and middle.  Place shims against wall.  Set cabinet carefully back against wall.  Check level.  Place wedges (triangular shaped pieces of scrap) in front of cabinet if needed to level.  Also check level front to back.

Find any stud (studs are 1 1/2″ wide and every 16″ for most jobs).  Screw cabinet in with 2 1/2″ #2 screws on every stud.

Once installed, adjust doors. One screw moves door front to back, one moves door closer or farther from other door.

Put top on.  Mark center of partitions (internal seams).  Put wood glue on top close to the edges.  Put top back on, shoot with trim gun & 16-gauge nails about every 8″ to 10″.

Find top cabinet (as tall as a bookshelf but by itself – it’s sideways).  Put a 20″ 2 x 4 on top of the base cabinet on the left end and another on the right end.  Get a few people to lift and set the upper cabinet on the 2 x 4’s.

Screw in first screw in top cleat on stud.  Inset so they can putty over it.  Measure and mark studs (every 16″).  Check level under upper cabinet.  Screw top screws into cleat.  Remove 2 x 4’s holding up top cabinet.  Screw screws inside upper cabinet about 7 1/2″ from bottom in every other stud (one per cabinet).

 

3. Time Counter(s):

(once time counter installed)  Adjust time counter drawers – if drawer is crooked, hit saddle (wooden frame behind drawer) with hammer up or down on left or right until door shuts evenly.  Screw in with 1 1/4″ or 1 5/8″ screws, 2 per saddle.

 

4. Information Board(s):

 

5. Sound Cabinet:

Bring sound cabinet where it goes. The end that goes against the wall will need a cutout for wires.

 

6. Book Room Bookcases (these are done last because the foyer is too crowded at the beginning; paint may still be wet so be careful not to scratch walls):

Take doors off and keep each 4 together.  Bring cabinets into bookroom.  Use filler/scribe strip on right edge. Line up 2 tops of the cabinets farthest to the right.  Clamp in 4 places.  Feel each section of face frames and make sure flush.  Screw 2 bookcases together with 3″ wood screws starting from bottom.  Move clamps to next section and make flush each time.  

When all done, screw in top cleat on studs.